The New York Times
So Varied, So Appealing in Small or Large Plates

By PATRICIA BROOKS
Published: July 13, 2008

DINING on Washington Street in South Norwalk is often a delightful adventure, but sometimes a transitory one. Restaurants come and go. One that I hope is here for a long time to come is Osetra, ensconced in a storefront space formerly occupied by Porterhouse.

The menu at Osetra, named for one of the best types of Russian caviar, does have a couple of caviar accents, but offers much, much more in terms of variety and creativity.

The formula is simple. There are no separate appetizers and entrees, but rather a menu of small and large plates. If you want an entree, it is available in a large-plate portion, but it is much more fun, in my view, for a group to order a bunch of small plates and share. The dishes are so varied and appealing that a number of them can make for a lively meal. And, similar to a meal at a tapas bar, a large number of wines are available by the glass, almost 50 of them.

One of the best dishes among the many we tried over several visits was one of the simplest: fried oysters. Ever-so-lightly battered, they were plump, full of flavor and delicious. With them came a maple cream (edged by a hint of lemon juice and olive oil), juicy blackberries and toasted pecans. As a small plate, the oysters were $10; a dinner-size portion ran $20. A “small pile of fried clams” (small $7, large $14) was almost as tasty — as lightly battered as the oysters, and accompanied by a cornichon relish and white vinegar mayonnaise.

Among 11 other seafood choices, we also enjoyed cast-iron jumbo sea scallop ($11 and $22). This monster bivalve, meticulously browned and tender, arrived with steamed garlicky bok choy, a drizzle of black bean purée and a slice of broiled eel. Even more appealing was the flash-grilled Atlantic salmon ($12 and $24), perfectly grilled on one side, rare on the other (as I like it). With it came a chunk of crispy-edged, fork-tender duck confit, ginger soy and lightly sautéed sweet pea tendrils.

Certain small plates come in rather modest portions, like the littleneck clam ceviche ($8 and $16), which was somewhat overshadowed by its warm johnnycakes, parsnip mayonnaise and mustard vinaigrette. On the other hand, a small plate of lamb chop tonnato ($16 and $32) consisted of a substantial chop, paired with caper-braised chick peas and a green bean salad. Of course the prices reflect the portion.

One of my favorite dishes was carpaccio of beef short ribs ($10 and $20), which joined paper-thin slices of rare beef with aged French goat cheese, garlic mayonnaise and mâche greens. Another notable was lump crab scampi ($12 and $24) — super-fresh crab meat served with a slightly sweet egg noodle pudding (so delectable I could have made a meal of it alone).

Not all of the ingenious temptations by David Nevin, the chef and owner, work. Using graham crackers instead of bread in a plum panzanella salad ($6 and $12) is an idea that should be forgotten, despite the tasty caramelized onions and chunks of fresh plums. Accouterments of creamed oysters, chewy seaweed salad and wisps of fried onions were enjoyable, but didn’t quite jell with grilled beef sirloin ($15 and $30).

We succumbed to five of seven house-made desserts, all as seductive as most of the meal, though simpler. Meyer lemon tart with lavender foam, lavender almond ice cream and a crisp, honeyed tuile was superb. Raspberry soufflé was so moist and flavorful it didn’t even need its coconut cream sauce.

Don’t miss the light and lovely blueberry-ginger clafoutis, presented with a scoop of white chocolate ice cream, ginger snaps and white chocolate rum sauce or the loose-textured warm peach bread pudding with mascarpone pistachio ice cream and peach purée.

If Osetra had tables outdoors, as several other Washington Street restaurants do, it would add to the festive air of summer dining in this area. In any season, though, dining at Osetra is bound to be a pleasurable experience.

Osetra
124 Washington Street
South Norwalk
(203) 354-4488

VERY GOOD

THE SPACE A long narrow storefront with maple-stained pine wainscoting, wood floor and tanguile (Philippine mahogany) tables; banquettes along the right side, long bar in rear. Despite hard surfaces, conversation is possible. Street-level entrance.

THE CROWD Mixed ages, mostly in neat, casual attire. Staff is personable and helpful.

THE BAR Full bar. Remarkable, diverse wine list by the glass, almost 50 choices, from $7 to $18; bottles from $26.

THE BILL Dinner only: all dishes are available as small or large plates, the small plates priced from $6 to $17, the larger versions $12 to $32; desserts $5 to $12. American Express, MasterCard and Visa credit cards are accepted.

WHAT WE LIKE Fried oysters, cast-iron jumbo sea scallops, littleneck clam ceviche, carpaccio of beef short ribs, fried clams, lamb chop tonnato, lump crab scampi, flash-grilled Atlantic salmon; raspberry soufflé, blueberry ginger clafoutis, Meyer lemon tart, warm peach bread pudding, chocolate hazlenut cake.

IF YOU GO Dinner only: 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Reservations accepted. Limited metered parking on the street; a metered parking lot in the rear (accessible from Haviland Street).

Reviewed July 13, 2008